This guy is my new woodworking hero! I cant wait until I have some free time to just sit there and watch all of his videos. http://www.youtube.com/user/lgosseuxdbois
Before getting to the OSB, I fastened the XPS panels to prevent them from shifting. I secured each of the 2 x 8 XPS panels with two (2) Tapcons into the underlying concrete floor. Thats not enough for permanent attachment, but since Id be attaching the OSB through the XPS, it only needed to be attached enough to hold still while I installed it. I started every other row of XPS with a half sheet so that though there were many joints where three (3) panels met, there were no four (4) panel joints.
The corded PC impact driver burnt out after driving about 2 dozen Tapcons.
After the XPS, I installed the 3/4" tongue and groove OSB. I used a half sheet of OSB on every other row also to achieve the same 3 panel joints. Each sheet of OSB was fastened through the XPS into the concrete with 18 tapcons in a 4-3-4-3-4 patten, installed along the factory markings which are painted on the OSB to help identify where the framing is for typical installations. This left me with a floor fastened every 1.7 on center. It shouldnt be going anywhere.
Its beginning to look like a floor.
With the XPS installed to 7-1/2 from the garage door and the OSB installed to 12 from the edge of the XPS I called it a day on installing the floor. I has hoped to also make the threshold which will fit in the 7-1/2 space, but I realized too late that my planer was stuck in my living room, surrounded by the other workshop paraphernalia.
The next morning, after I picked up my new jointer, I began the long task of loading all of the tools into the shop by myself. By the time my wife got home in the early afternoon, the only thing left in the living room was my work bench.
Reloaded with the contents of my shop.
Though I still need to build the threshold and tie it into the OSB Ive spent the few weeks since the floor was installed coloring the walls and setting the shop back up. In that time, Ive already come to appreciate how nice working on the new floor is. When I step from the concrete at the door to the OSB I can immediately feel how firm and soft the new floor is.
Though Im far from finished, its absolutely delightful to be able to reach a
Last Saturday my son displayed his art in a show with his art class at the Central Park Zoo. It was a well received show and outside of heat, it was a wonderful day. My frame was actually well received, sloppy corners an all. Luckily though, I was able to make a second piece to help display his art and this one came out much nicer.
Dylans art show display
One of his three (3) dimensional projects was a clock. Its a collage of clocks glued onto a box, with a round porthole cut out to reveal a clock face inside also.
Since the clock just sits on whatever you put it, I was asked to make a clock stand.
Initially I was going to make a low stand with ornate feet. As the deadline approached I was looking through The Complete Illustrated Guide to Furniture & Cabinet Construction. After thumbing through the section on feet and basically deciding on making a rounded base with mitered legs, I then flipped through the cabinet on stand section. I occurred to me that I could make a tall stand for the clock rather than a stubby one.
With that idea in my head, I went out to the shop and started milling legs and aprons. I was making a tiny shaker table to hold the clock.
Should I clean my table saw blade.
I wont go into too much detail on the table, as there are many resources online for making a shaker end table (Id personally recommend the Shaker End Table Woodwhisperer Guild Project).
The finished clock stand with the clock atop.
The one thing that I was rather pleased about regarding the table construction was the mitered frame is used as a top to hold the Clock. After having issues cutting miters on my table saw with my Incra jig, I chose to make these on my miter saw. When I cut a test piece and held it against a japanese miter square I have, I was pleasantly surprised to find the miter saw was perfect. I cut all eight miter cuts on the miter saw and the frame came together 100% gap free.
This is a guest post by Chris Adkins of High Rock Woodworking. It originally appeared at highrockwoodworking.com. Feel free to check back there for more of Chriss woodworking rambling.
My Current Workbench
Like many woodworkers my two-car garage is my workshop but unfortunately I have not convinced my wife to permanently give up her side. So I have my shop bench and tools set up on one side and have to pull her car out to actually work.
Because of the space restrictions everything in my shop needs to multi task. If I had space to designate an area just for my workbench I would really enjoy the process of building a traditional English style woodworking bench, although I would probably go with a more American style top without the tool well.
But for now I have adapted my workbench to the few and what I consider necessities. For my bench top I used a solid 2/0x6/8 birch door with 4x4 steel legs held together by 1x1 steel welded together to form the frame.
The top is mounted on the frame and I attached a birch skirt. The steel frame is probably a bit of overkill but I wanted a solid base to ensure that I have no movement when working. I have also installed a shoulder vice and bench dog holes.
Shaker Style Woodworking Bench
Based on my workbench there are several things that I would do again and several that I would change. I like the base and will probably use it again only needing to build a top when I upgrade my workbench. I also like the width, you will notice most woodworking benches are narrow, I alchoices thought that I would want a wider bench but the 24 width I have now is perfect. A wider bench would not allow me to work all around my work.
The solid core door has served me well but it does have its restrictions, I have to be extra careful as the top is a veneer and almost any liquids on the top can destroy the thin veneer.
Tail Vice
As for change I would definitely go with a double screw shoulder vice, the single screw shoulder vice that I have does not provide even pressure when clamping on one end and I often have to use spacer blocks at the other end to even the pressure. I would also add a tail vise as my woodworking develops I find that I spend more time jointing and planing my boards by hand. A tail vise would allow me many more options for securing the boards and my work. With my current top it was not feasible to install a tail vice but it is difficult to clamp long boards for planing.
In the end I will close the same choice as I opened in part one of this series, the perfect woodworking bench is what works best for you and your situation. If I had all the time, space, and resources I would probably have a woodworking bench that looked like something belonging to inspector gadget but for now I am happy to continue to improve on what I have and have fun doing it.
One of my projects for this year is to make a wide bookshelf in the kids playroom. I want to incorporate some drawers in the bottom and some cubbies in the middle with shelves on top. This is a good plan for the cubbies.
I installed my new 8" dado set into my Skilsaw 3410 contractor table saw today. It turns out that the arbor will only accommodate 1/2" of the 13/16" set. I guess that I will be making a few more passes than I planned. It will still beat the heck out of making them with a single blade!
A week or so ago I decided to try my hand at making something that wasnt Pine. I have a crate full of small pieces of Mahogany, Oak and various other hard woods, none of which are large enough to make furniture.
While most of the pieces are small they are however quite thick, around 19mm (3/4"). I therefore decided to try my hand at re-sawing a piece of Mahogany and White Oak to make a simple Jewellery box.
The only saw I had at the time (my panel saws were achoice being sharpened) was my Irwin pull saw which allowed me to get a semi decent cut on each piece.
I did have to plane the cut surfaces quite heavily to remove the saw marks that resulted from constantly turning the piece while sawing and sometimes correcting my inaccuracy. Also, almost immediately after being cut both the Mahogany and the Oak cupped quite badly.
I removed most of this cupping with a plane and ended up with my two long and two short sides of the box all of which were reasonably square and true..
I decided to stay with box joints as they are quite familiar now and I still havent plucked up the courage to delve into Dovetails.
I used my new Lie Nielson shoulder plane to rabbit the two long sides of the box to accept a simple 6mm plywood base.
All the cutting went well and the dry fit looked good. Unfortunately, thats where the project came to a halt as I was then achoice for a week down on the boat in Brighton.
Once I did get back I was keen to finish the box, but to my surprise the pieces had all cupped and bowed again, making the joinery less than perfect. A better man than I couldve probably re-surfaced and trued up the wood but, to be honest by this point Id lost interest. I figured I would go ahead and glue it up and forget the lid that I had planned and just see how it turned out.
The two personal lessons to be learnt here are, firstly, from now on I will make sure I dont wait too long before glueing freshly cut parts, especially once the joinery has been cut.
And secondly ... I need to work on another essential wood working skill called patience. I have noticed that once a project is well underchoice, I start getting excited and racing to see the completed object.
At the moment I mentally need to start and finish things and stay in the zone. I would be completely useless doing a large project spread out over a large period of time unless I could work regularly on it almost daily.
Anychoice, it was another learning experience and the box has now found a home on my girlfriends dressing table so it hasnt been completely wasted.
A few weeks ago it was announced that all of the Wood Whisperer episodes would be coming to YouTube. This is great news.
Im not the biggest fan of YouTube, but I will say that its ubiquity means that it is where I consume most of my internet video. With the advent of the ChromeCast, watching YouTube on my flat screen has now become the absolute easiest choice to consume video in my living room.
YouTube is also nice because its easy to watch in my shop on a mobile device and its easy to share via embedded video here on the blog.
This announcement means that its even easier to watch +Marc Spagnuolo. Now that the entire Wood Whisperer catalog will be available, Ill be able to watch even more.
Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.
There are many components to a great shop. One that I dont think gets quite enough credit - and one that Ive ignored until now - is the floor. Like many woodworkers with a garage shop, for years Ive simply used the original concrete as my floor. It was there and machines on wheels were able to roll on it - it worked.
As Ive finished up the odyssey that was my shop walls over the last few months Ive thought about the floor. After the work of the walls, the floor would be quick and simple - provided I could get all my crap off of it. When I realized that my kids would be achoice with my Dad and my Wife achoice with her sister on the same weekend I knew I had a chance to install the floor that I had to take advantage of.
On Friday of the big weekend, once everyone was on their choice I began by moving all of the living room furniture into the dining room. Then I laid out drop cloths and began moving my shop into the living room. I brought my Cousin over and together we emptied everything out of the shop except the table saw, band saw and jointer. Then I paid him with dinner.
I dragged myself up on Saturday and got to work. Unlike many published designs for installing shop floors over masonry floors, I built mine without sleepers. To get achoice without the support sleepers provide, I used 60 psi extruded polystyrene (XPS) rather than the standard 20 psi. Between the high psi XPS and the diffusion the 3/4" OSB would provide to point loading of weight, I decided no sleepers would be needed. I didnt do any structural calculations, but so far the lack of sleepers hasnt been a problem.
The gap between the wall and the XPS is filled with Great Stuff
After vacuuming the floor, the first step was to lay down the XPS. I measured a relatively straight line about 1/2" off the curb at bottom of the exterior wall of my shop. I used that line to set the XPS. I filled the gap between the curb and the XPS with Great Stuff. I used Window & Door great stuff with my Pro-Gun, as I have for the entire shop renovation. The gun gives application control unachievable with the standard can and straw. The Window and Door Great Stuff is better than standard Great Stuff because it stays softer and expands less than standard Great Stuff, making installation easier.
Air sealing as I go.
The XPS I used has a rabbit around the edge. I installed it upside down so that when the sheets were laid against each other, the rabbits created a channel which I filled with M-1 caulking. This allowed me to air seal between the boards of insulation.
2013 is over. With it, my year of monthly shop tours has come to and end. Here, I present to you the final tour of the year: December.
Some of you may have noticed that this only makes 11 tours for the year. Im sorry. I dont know what happened to September. I have enjoyed these regular tours quite a bit. Ive found that they have kept me motivated and pushed me to make (and finish) many more shop projects this year than in years past. Im going to keep them a regular feature through the coming years as the shop continues to evolve.
Im not the only one to finish the year with a tour. Here is +David Harms (justsquareenough.com) December 2013 tour. Hes made quite a bit of progress this year too.
Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.
I need to make a chair right now like I need a hole in my head.
Looks like a chair, no?
I have at least a blog post worth of unfinished, halfchoice built projects in my shop. Yet, Im having a damn hard time working on any of them. In my head, I keep turning my chair design over and over.
As with many of my ideas, Im thinking of building my first chair out of Timberstrand. Im in agreement with all of you who Im sure are yelling that real wood - Walnut even - is what real chairs should be made of. Even though Ive a soft spot in my heart for Timberstrand, I agree that its not what truly fine chairs are made of.
This chair though, is more experiment than fine woodworking. Im using it to test my design, push my skill and see if Timberstrand shapes and dyes well.
This video demonstrates the first part of the test. Will my arm and joinery be strong enough?
Just a quick post while Im waiting for some glue to dry...
While making my small bedside table I quickly came to realise that I was spending most of my time making my inaccurate cuts to length correct by planing the end grain with a block plane. My old steel backed backsaw is slightly bent, almost blunt and in need of a sharpen, not to mention a slightly loose handle. This combined with my natural inability to saw straight meant a lot of wasted time, especially as I was leaving the marking lines and then some just incase the cut went wrong.
Now dont get me wrong, I know I could spend some time sharpening the saw etc but what better excuse than to splurge on some shiny new toys?
I have to say a big thankyou to my girlfriend for my late Birthday presents...
My new bling bling Lie Nielson 14ppi Crosscut Carcass Saw & 15ppi Thin Plate Rip Dovetail Saw has made cutting to size a breeze. I can choose to split the line or leave it intact with a very minimal of effort and maintain a square cut. Yes they are pricey and probably choice overkill for my beginning needs, but the smile I get just from picking them up makes them worth it!
I was a little worried when I first used the new saws as they seemed to jump out of the cut and generally not seem to behave, but soon learnt not to force the cut and relax both my grip and pressure letting the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the teeth do the work. The result an almost perfect square cut 99% of the time.
The nice shiny plates also allow me to mark a straight perpendicular line on the non-waste side of the cut and the reflection in the saw plate aids as a guide to keep the blade straight and plumb. In short these saws are teaching me how to saw accurately and correctly.
I mentioned in one of my VLOGs a couple of weeks ago that I am going to make a rocking chair cradle for my brother and his wife who are expecting their first child in January. I am hoping to have it completed by Christmas. I have finished my first draft of the project in Sketchup. I expect to be making some design changes as I mock it up but this is what I am starting out with. I have no idea what kind of joinery I am going to use yet or if those rocker bottoms will even work. It should be interesting...
After finally getting the spare room decorated, I have now moved my tools in and made some wood shavings. Tool storage is pretty basic at the moment but I hope to either build a tool chest or wall cabinet at some point.
As you can see from the photo below, the new bench is a nice size for such a small room and fits my needs fine as a beginning wood worker.
As expected, the bench does try to run achoice from me when planing heavily but its not to bad if I butt it against one of the walls and my tools are sharp. Its also too high for planing, although the perfect height for cutting, etc, so I might shorten the legs a little in time to get more weight down over the plane. Well see its early days...
Aside from a bench hook and generally playing around with scraps of wood, this small bedside table is the first thing I have ever made out of wood in my life! All done using hand tools only and no electricity aside from the room lights!
Its made using Half Lap joints from scrap wood (really soft Pine) thrown achoice by the next door neighbour and an old bed headboard, (which I think is African Mahogany) for the top. It took me 3 days to build it (including stripping heavy varnish from the Mahogany) and I have already learnt so much in those three days.
As a logical learning progression, I thought I would start with simple Half Lap joints and then progress on to Mortise & Tennons, Finger Joints and finally Dovetails.
I have some Mahogony offcuts from my boat, bought some pieces of cheap Pine from the timber yard and stock piled some old wood that was destined to be thrown achoice, so expect some more small projects soon.
Ive just about posted all of the content I created and recorded at Woodworking in America 2013. Luckily, my good friends +Tom Iovino, +Sean Wisniewski, +Neal Becker gave me some photos to share. I hope you enjoy. By the choice, if you want to see really good photos of WIA13, check out +David Picciutos blog, Drunken Woodworker.
The Online Woodworking Discussion Panel.
Somehow, the let the Modern Woodworkers Association in.
The Wood Talk and Giant Cypress guys were let in too, to provide actual information.
Yes, Tom talks just as much in person.
Neil Zenuk (@twowheelneil) chops some sweet dovetails.
Tom likes me!
Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.
I finally assembled my new drill press that I bought a couple of months ago. All the cool woodworkers have one so I figured that I should pick one up too. I waited until they went on sale at Harbor Freight and then used my 20% off coupon and got it for under $60. Its not the best reviewed one out there but all I want to do is drill some straight holes in wood so I think that I will be fine. I spcifically bought the one with a chuck key. I read a lot of reviews saying the one with a keyless chuck alchoices seemed to fail over time. Ive never actually used a drill press before so this is all one big adventure.
New in the box
Still in the box
Kinda out of the box
Out of the box
I bolted the column assembly to the base
I then slid the table down over the column
I put the motor assembly on top and tightened the 2 allen screws on the side
I nstalled the 3 feed handles next
The chuck came covered in grease
So I cleaned it and the key
I retracted the jaws all the choice inside the key and slid it over the spindle
I lifted the table and put a piece of scrap wood on it (not pictured) and then
pulled down on the feed handles to force the chuck onto the spindle
It felt like I was going to break something when I pulled on the handles so the chuck
didnt seem to go as far on the spindle as I would have liked
So I layed it on its side, placed the scrap wood next to the chuck,and gave it a
couple of good whacks
It went on a little tighter that choice. From looking at the spindle assembly I still feel
like it should have gone up more
It was set to the highest speed so I moved the belt to the middle. It has a handy chart
attached to the inside of the lid showing where to put the belt for the different speeds
and belt placements
I live close to a Home Depot but the Ryobi Forstner bits had a lot of reviews saying that
they were dull so I drove to Lowes and picked up som Porter Cable bits. They cost almost as
much as the drill press.
I ran a test and the chuck didnt look like it was wobbling at all
I was kinda surprised at just how much sawdust this little hole halfchoice through
a 2x4 made
It looks good to me. Now I can make the woodworking mallet from