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A week or so ago I decided to try my hand at making something that wasnt Pine. I have a crate full of small pieces of Mahogany, Oak and various other hard woods, none of which are large enough to make furniture.
While most of the pieces are small they are however quite thick, around 19mm (3/4"). I therefore decided to try my hand at re-sawing a piece of Mahogany and White Oak to make a simple Jewellery box.

The only saw I had at the time (my panel saws were achoice being sharpened) was my Irwin pull saw which allowed me to get a semi decent cut on each piece.
I did have to plane the cut surfaces quite heavily to remove the saw marks that resulted from constantly turning the piece while sawing and sometimes correcting my inaccuracy. Also, almost immediately after being cut both the Mahogany and the Oak cupped quite badly.
I removed most of this cupping with a plane and ended up with my two long and two short sides of the box all of which were reasonably square and true..
I decided to stay with box joints as they are quite familiar now and I still havent plucked up the courage to delve into Dovetails.
I used my new Lie Nielson shoulder plane to rabbit the two long sides of the box to accept a simple 6mm plywood base.
All the cutting went well and the dry fit looked good. Unfortunately, thats where the project came to a halt as I was then achoice for a week down on the boat in Brighton.
Once I did get back I was keen to finish the box, but to my surprise the pieces had all cupped and bowed again, making the joinery less than perfect. A better man than I couldve probably re-surfaced and trued up the wood but, to be honest by this point Id lost interest. I figured I would go ahead and glue it up and forget the lid that I had planned and just see how it turned out.
The two personal lessons to be learnt here are, firstly, from now on I will make sure I dont wait too long before glueing freshly cut parts, especially once the joinery has been cut.
And secondly ... I need to work on another essential wood working skill called patience. I have noticed that once a project is well underchoice, I start getting excited and racing to see the completed object.
At the moment I mentally need to start and finish things and stay in the zone. I would be completely useless doing a large project spread out over a large period of time unless I could work regularly on it almost daily.
Anychoice, it was another learning experience and the box has now found a home on my girlfriends dressing table so it hasnt been completely wasted.
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My second project, a small toolbox / bench tool organiser.
This little project started as an excuse for me to try my hand at mortise & tenon joints and finger (box) joints. Again its made from scraps of Pine I had laying around.
While its pretty small, it serves to keep all my most frequently used things such as squares, tape measure, marking knife & gauges, bradawl and chisels close to hand. Its also big enough to hold my bench backsaws.
All in all Im pretty pleased with how it turned out in terms of the joints. My one niggle is the glue line along the bottom. I am using Titebond polyurethane expanding foam glue which is a nightmare to use and impossible to get off your hands (even with nail varnish remover). I guess I should have put a proper (glue-less) base on the box using grooves instead of getting lazy and simply glueing and screwing on a bottom panel.
Oh well... It served as a good learning experience and the box will be handy.
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The Joinery section starts on Page 63.
Enjoy...
FREE Download from Google Books.
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Ok ... I said the Small Pine Chest was done ... Impatience!!!
In between working on a new project, I have gone back and fitted the hinges, improved the finish and made an addition to it, hopefully making it more of a finished piece and a lot more useful.
As this project was my warm up to dovetails and making my own tool chest, I decided to add a drawer or till to it. Nothing fancy just a simple butt jointed box that sits on two Oak side rails. As it stands this would make a nice little travelling tool chest. My no#6 plane fits in the bottom like a hand in a glove! In fact its probably a good thing that my large tennon saw doesnt fit as I have now out grown my small toolbox I made (what seems like) ages ago.
Instead its going to make someone a lovely Christmas present...
Anychoice, a few pics to really wrap this project up!
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Due to family matters I am currently in France achoice from my workshop and tools. Aside from swinging the odd axe and hatchet for the log burner, I have been a completely woodworking free zone for three weeks!!!
However ... with lots of free time to spare I have been doing a lot of internet reading and learning! The new buzzwords floating around my head are Timber Frames & Green Oak, and Chainsaw Milling. Objects of desire now include such things as Robert Sorby 1, 1.5 & 2 inch chisels and 2 & 3 inch Slicks. Gransfors Bruks Draw Knives and Froes, and Wetterlings Axes.
God Makes Work for Idle Hands.... Ill be back home real soon and I have a lot of catching up to do!
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This posting was started on the 10th November and has been written as the project progressed... Instead of getting stuck into the project until completion, I had a week where I was busy with other things.
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A few days ago I finally decided I need to pluck up some courage and have a go at Dovetails...
I also need to make a tool chest at some point, therefore, the decision was made to build a smaller practise chest first.
I had a few lengths of budget B-grade Pine 18mm thick and 144mm wide which is really knotty but will (hopefully) do the job. Being my first attempt at dovetails, there is a good chance Im gonna screw up, so no point in wasting good wood - right?
I also have the remains of what looks like a Mahogany desk top with which to make a lid - if I even get that far!
First job was to roughly cut the pine boards to length and glue them together to make wider boards. After glueing I cut them to exact length and made sure they were all square with my shooting board and no#6 plane.

2 sides, a front and back and a bottom piece that hasnt been cut to any specific size yet.
Before laying out the joinery, I thought it best to practice laying out dovetails on a scrap piece of wood using instructions from a book. I wanted to layout the pin & tail spacings using dividers but each time i ended up with incorrect spacings. I even got my girlfriend involved to check my sanity following the instructions line by line and still the method didnt work. Finally I resorted to looking up Dovetail layout on good ol Google.
Ah ha!!!!... The book instructions were wrong! Printing or proof reading error perhaps - who knows, at least I was back on track and could now confidently layout dovetails on the chest. I could have just used common sense but wanted to learn properly - by the book so to speak.
Marking out my tail boards first, both boards together to save some time.
I set my bevel gauge to a 1:6 as recommended for softwoods. I think they look nicer than 1:8 dovetails as well so this will probably be my default setting if I decide to make a dovetail jig.
Front & Back boards tails all marked out and ready for cutting - X marks the waste.
Tails cut. Chopping out the waste from the tails boards was nice and easy and pretty straight forward, taking care to preserve the baseline. I took a lot of time ensuring my cutting was accurate but realised afterwards its the accuracy of the pins that makes a tight joint as these come from the tails.
My bench isnt the most solid thing in the world so I used a huge butchers block on my saw bench so I could sit astride it and chop out the pins. These took a lot longer as my tails were pretty big and I was using a much bigger chisel.
There we go... My first ever Dovetails!!! One corner done another three to go...
Its starting to look like a box ...
After a lot of chopping, a big pile of wood chips and worrying about the neighbours complaining about the banging...
I have a dovetailed box carcass. While the joints certainly are not perfect by any means they look OK and will be even better with some glue. They do look real purdy...I think so anychoice.
A close up of the Dovetails after gluing. The expanding glue makes them positively tight and decent looking. I wish I had used better quality wood now as this was supposed to be a practice project. They will look even better when I do a final finish.
Time to make a bottom for it...
I planed the bottom board for a nice snug fit. I do not own a plough plane yet and decided to simply glue this bottom panel inside the carcass. In modern glue we trust!. I may also add some screw or nails.
Before gluing in the bottom panel, I rubbed glue in to the end grain to seal it and better protect against a dry joint.
The Titebond Polyurethane glue is strong stuff and fills out any joinery imperfections nicely, but its messy and sticky stuff to use. Its also hard to clean up the squeeze out once dry. The nail varnish remover makes cleaning and unsticking hands a lot easier.
Good squeeze out all around the bottom panel.
At this stage aside from cleaning up and finishing, the carcass is almost complete.
Time to focus on the lid...
The lid is made from a piece mahogany which was given to me by a friend. I believe it was part of an old school desk or side bench. As you can see its covered in glue and paint and God Knows What! . Also shown is the small lip on one side which is about 3/4" wide by 1/4" high, which I have decided to keep and use in the final design - Im making this up as I go!
Its such a nice feeling making accurate cuts using sharp panel saws on a proper saw bench. The saw shown is my favourite 26" monster at 5ppi rip.
Ok ... we have a (very) basic square(ish) lid, it needs a lot more refining...
Removing the saw marks and squaring the lid - End grain first.
Removing the old finish, paint and grime... I then chamfered all the top edges to make what I believe is called a raised panel. The Mahogany handles so much nicer than Pine, I wish I had more of this stuff!
Lots of shavings later.... Nice red stuff instead of the usual white.
Unfinished Pine is so anaemic...

We have an almost completed chest. I have had a nightmare with tearout while trying to finish the pine carcass. Using sandpaper helps but seems a cop out. I think I am going to buy a cabinet scraper which should be able to better handle difficult wood such as this knotty Pine. I also need to buy a hinge for the lid.
Impatience! I couldnt wait and wanted to see the final finish of the lid. Here it is with a single coat of boiled Linseed oil. I will add more once the carcass is finished properly.
Ok... Final sanding done and a couple of coats of Linseed oil applied... Aside from fitting a hinge for the lid - Im gonna call it ... Done!
I have to say for a first attempt at dovetail joinery I am very happy with the result. I only really messed up one half pin on the back side at the bottom where I undercut the baseline slightly - it wont really show. The rest of the joints are quite tight. I really wish I had started with clearer, less knotty wood - oh well, I guess they add character.
Due to other commitments, my week achoice from the project meant I mentally turned off and lost interest and motivation.. Once again I found myself racing to finish it due to impatience and my weak point is finishing. If I continue to use Pine then I think a cabinet scraper (already ordered) will be the choice forward, especially as I hate sanding and the dust it creates in the house. I resharpened the plane blade, made the mouth smaller, played with the chip breaker, skewed the blade and still got lots of tear out. Practice practice practice....
I make sure that when I butt joint the two boards together, the cup of the grain runs in opposite directions to minimise wood movement. So ... what is the best choice to plane jointed boards when the grain of the two boards runs in opposite directions?
All in all another great learning exercise and a good confidence builder, and ... I can add another joint to my repertoire!
Im really keen to have a go at a full size tool chest soon.
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Had to share this quote:
Working with hand tools is a much more eco-friendly choice to work. Its a deep part of the human experience, working with that blade and the wood. Its much like when Obi-Wan Kenobi gave Luke Skywalker the lightsaber and said, This is the weapon of a Jedi Knight. Not as clumsy or as random as a blaster. An elegant weapon for a more civilized age.
Roy Underhill - 2008.
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....... there is good wine!!
The Stanley 101 is a plane that escapes the attention and consideration of many. It is just long 3 1 / 2 inches and has a blade only 1" wide. It was produced from 1877 to 1962.
When put on the market it was offered as a toy plane, failing to provide the considerable success it would have. In fact, I too have not considered it for some years, parking on its shelf until I had the need to use it. In fact, I had to finish the corners of a frame fixed with glue and nails. Lacking room for using a classic block (my 9 1 / 2 plane) without danger to ruin the cutter edge on nails, I decided to use the 101, which carried out its first job to my service in the best choice . Of course it needed the classical basic treatment : iron sharpening (I made a single 30° bevel ) and sole flattening.
I tested the plane onto mahogany and ash. Passed with flying colors!
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This project began by chance, after seeing some plane realizations on the net. I used what I had at home, including a new old Hirch (made in Germany) iron and chipbreaker that my friend Ciro gave me a couple of years ago.
The plane body is ash; I really like it, solid, compact, enough easy to work. The sole and wedge are wenge. The light-dark contrast is very nice.
The wood button used to release the cutting group and setting the blade alchoices attracted me, so I placed a wenge one in the back of the plane.
Not having a right sized ash piece, I proceeded to gluing up three pieces of approx. 3 cm thick.
I excavated the throat cavity by Forstner bits as deep as possible, continuing with a 1" Japanese-style Firmer chisel (Atsunomi). To get the exact bed angle (60 °) I used the chisel with a beech guide block clamped to the top body.
I stamped "S60" on the back. S means Smoother and 60 is for indicating the seat angle. To obtain the moldings on the corners I used the belt sander, taking the plane in contact with the abrasive tape for few seconds. I obtained the wenge button drilling it by a cup saw.
A double sole really helps to get a very tight mouth. The wenge is a wood very resistant to wear, but has tendency to chip, so be very careful during chiselling around the mouth.The sole has been leveled on sandpaper glued to a flat surface (120 and 180 Grit).
Shavings are our real prize.
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