Hi all. I just completed a trial using the slitting blade mounted to a router table to cut the blade slot in a backsaw handle. The end results were extremely good. The critical thing I found with the trial is getting the operating speed of the router correct. The router I have mounted in the table is a Makita 1/2" 22,000 rpm single speed unit. With the slitting blade mounted there was a slight vibration within the blade at full operating speed. Using the Jaycar motor speed controller I adjusted the rpm dial down to eliminate any of this vibration and at a speed I felt was adequate to complete the slot within the handle. The slitting blade I was using was hss 75mm o.d. x 0.5mm thickness. The o.d. gave me an effective cut of 45mm outside the top flange of the slitting blade holder. The 0.5mm was slightly under gauge to the 0.020 inches saw plate I normally use for my backsaws. As it ended up this was ideal as I was able to slide the saw plate within the kerfed cut without having to open it up any further. I chose to use an old discarded backsaw handle for the trial and cut 2 slots well achoice from the original slot that was cut in the handle, flipping the handle over as I went. Heres the end results. On each side of the handle I completed 3 passes to achieve an optimum outside penetration of the area I wanted slotted. It felt quite safe to run the handle through the slitting blade while guided the handle by hand. But I would not recommend likewise to others unless you have a high quality mounting for the router, a failsafe depth adjustment lock, and a means of slowing down the operating speed of the router. Continuing on: The 1st pass in the correct feed direction. The 2nd pass in the correct feed direction. The 3rd and final pass in an opposing feed direction. I could not feel any obvious signs of heat build up on the slitting blade after completing all 3 passes. The final step was to insure the slot was cut to the full and proper depth to allow the saw plate correct seating within the handle. This was done by hand using a dedicated high tpi backsaw thats had the set removed. As mentioned the results were excellent with the handle slots spot on to the horizontal plane of each of the handle faces. I think I have covered most the important aspects of the trial. I hope you enjoyed the information. I should include that importance of wearing eye and ear protection and keep those fingers well achoice from the cutting blade. regards Stewiep.s. for more see this discussion:Woodnet Forum Discussion
The Stanley 113 is a plane for planing curved surfaces. It has a flexible sole, able to assume a concave or convex shape, with a variable radius regulated by turning a large knob. A toothed gear mechanism guarantees the correct sole movement. The #113 iron is identical to the Stanley #3 one, the size being 1 3 / 4 " (4.4 cm). The lever cap and the cap iron are different from those of #3, so you need pay attention to this detail when buying it. My # 113 was in good condition, just a lot of surface rust. I proceeded to disassemble the plane into its parts and treat them with a vinegar bath.The flexible sole should be dropped from the metal arms using a punch.The sole is welded to a dovetail shaped piece; it fits in the body plane. To take it apart I first lubricated with a descaler (WD40) and then gently hammered it using a punch of a suitable form (for the purpose I used a more little hammer, placing a smaller cardboard piece to protect from blows; alternatively you can use a wood piece of suitable form).If your sole does not want to move, better stop the action for avoiding damages to the cast iron parts, very difficult to repair! A common #113 defect is a mismatch between the iron seat and the mouth.The blade does not not rest properly and could create problems in planing (chattering). To solve this problem, I simply added a couple of shims (business cards are great) on the plane seat. The flexible sole should be free from rust. Use sandpaper attached to a flat surface, paying particular attention to the mouth area. The plane must be used with straight shots following the workpiece horizontal axis. It is also useful for the chamfer job.
Just a quick post while Im waiting for some glue to dry...
While making my small bedside table I quickly came to realise that I was spending most of my time making my inaccurate cuts to length correct by planing the end grain with a block plane. My old steel backed backsaw is slightly bent, almost blunt and in need of a sharpen, not to mention a slightly loose handle. This combined with my natural inability to saw straight meant a lot of wasted time, especially as I was leaving the marking lines and then some just incase the cut went wrong.
Now dont get me wrong, I know I could spend some time sharpening the saw etc but what better excuse than to splurge on some shiny new toys?
I have to say a big thankyou to my girlfriend for my late Birthday presents...
My new bling bling Lie Nielson 14ppi Crosscut Carcass Saw & 15ppi Thin Plate Rip Dovetail Saw has made cutting to size a breeze. I can choose to split the line or leave it intact with a very minimal of effort and maintain a square cut. Yes they are pricey and probably choice overkill for my beginning needs, but the smile I get just from picking them up makes them worth it!
I was a little worried when I first used the new saws as they seemed to jump out of the cut and generally not seem to behave, but soon learnt not to force the cut and relax both my grip and pressure letting the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the teeth do the work. The result an almost perfect square cut 99% of the time.
The nice shiny plates also allow me to mark a straight perpendicular line on the non-waste side of the cut and the reflection in the saw plate aids as a guide to keep the blade straight and plumb. In short these saws are teaching me how to saw accurately and correctly.
After attempting my first dovetails around November last year, I havent built upon the experience or attempted any other dovetails since. The Small Pine Chest was (and still is) my favourite project so far and I think I got very lucky with some quite tidy joints for a beginner.
I decided it was time to attempt to repeat the experience, almost knowing ahead of time that the first time was a fluke, and so to prepare for disappointment.
The idea for this project came from a small piece of Oak I had which was an offcut from the first ever thing I made. I decided it would make a nice lid for a box, and this with a length of 6" wide Pine board formed my stock.
I wont bore you too much with the starting process, needless to say that the bench hook, tenon saw and square, chisel and knife saw to cutting the pine to length, before using my no#4 plane and shooting board to shoot the ends clean.
Having all my components to size, I started to get a feel for the finished box.
After cutting to length I noticed a slight cupping of the boards and so dealt with this by planing across and diagonal to the grain with both my no#6 and no#4 .
Time to get my tools sorted for dovetails....
I used my new Veritas 1:6 dovetail template to make short work of marking out the tails, doing two boards at a time. Its certainly more accurate and less fiddly than using a bevel gauge. Time for some chopping...
After a quick sharpening session, I decided to remove all the tail waste using only chisels. Previously I think I removed the bulk of the waste using a fret saw. Once complete I marked out the bespoke Pins one board at a time using the side of my no#4 plane to mate up the boards accurately.
Maybe as a result of watching to many Utube dovetail videos, I tried to make the effort to not be overly slow and meticulous about making this box. I certainly didnt fuss to much with cutting the tails knowing the pins are marked from the tails and should correct any innacuracies. Obviously you get faster and better with time, but I dont want to spend a week making a simple box.
Ok .. first dry fit... not as good as they should be cosmetically but its certainly a strong box! Lesson learnt my board ends are slightly off square and hence my baselines are different either side of the board when marked out with the marking gauge. Its not a lot but enough to create gappy joinery. On with the show...
I thought it was about time I did my first ever grooved bottom and do the box bottom properly.
Ta daaa....The debut of my new Record 44 Plough plane. After sharpening the 3/16ths blade and a quick practice with a small scrap of pine, I went for it. The groove was cut to (just over) 5mm deep, meaning I had to allow 1cm in length and width when cutting the bottom piece. I decided to put the grooves all the choice through the pins and later hide the resultant holes with a skirt.
Time to cut some thin plywood for the bottom... 25cm x 17.5cm.
And do a dry fit....
The box holds together really tightly, it could probably serve its purpose without glue.... I hate this bit!
Panic over - I managed to get it all together with a lot of banging with a leather faced mallet and a scrap of wood. Unfortunately, the sight of the joinery closing up nicely with the added gap filler of glue led to me applying slight too much pressure....Doh!
Not to worry - its not the end of the world and I can probably doctor those small cracks when the glue is dry. The next step was to plane the old varnish from the box lid, trim it to size and add a decorative small bevel.
With the box out of the clamps I used my Stanley 102 block plane to trim the proud pins and tails before smoothing with my no#4.
The clamps and glue had helped to close up the dovetails, still not perfect and the odd one was a little gappy, but overall Im not too disappointed as a second attempt. In the true spirit of full disclosure, the following pictures show the pins and tails of all four sides.
Basically at this stage the box is almost complete and I had a change of mind (partly due to laziness) about fitting a skirt to hide the bottom groove in the bottom half pins. Instead I thought I would keep it simple, try and match the grain as best as I can and plug the holes.
I used a chisel to rive off small pieces of pine and trim to fit before glueing them in and finally using my flush cut saw to trim them off. I think they look fine.
So aside from having any hinges (which Ill fit at a later date) and a coat or two of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO), I was done. All in all I am quite pleased with this project both in terms of how it turned out and the time it took me to do it. Being only my second attempt at dovetails and my first ever grooved bottom made it interesting from start to finish without it becoming too epic.
Buying used books on amazon has been a great choice to expand your library. Since last summer I’ve been using it to expand my design library. For as little as $5.00 per book (with shipping) I’m able to pick up used copies of books ranging from Fine Woodworking to Sam Maloof to Jeff Miller on Amazon.
You need this book. Its fantastic.
It was an low used price which first led me to buy Jeff Miller’s Chairmaking & Design book. When I bought it, I can’t say I had too much interest in chair making, but it was reviewed well and was quite affordable.
Once it arrived, I knew it was a masterwork when I first flipped through it at my office. Now, having read it I know it’s a brilliant reference and instructional guide for beginning chair makers. It has been my goal to make a chair this year, and Jeff Miller’s book is the reason.
My finished version of the Jeff Miller Benchtop Bench.
When I was researching designs for benchtop benches before Father’s Day, I ran across Jeff Miller’s Benchtop Bench and ended up making a version for my Dad as a Father’s Day gift. After Chairmaking & Design the Benchtop Bench cement Jeff Miller as a master of instructional woodworking. His work has made him a master of woodworking itself.
Given my esteem of Jeff, it was with great excitement that I learned he would be teaching a class, Designing and Building Chairs with Jeff Miller, at Highland Woodworking. When I realized that the class was only two (2) days, on a weekend and only $195.00 I immediately signed up.
These are some of Millers wonderful Chairs to be discussed in the class.
The added bonus for me is that it means I’ll be making my first trip to Atlanta where I’ll not only get to experience Highland Woodworking first hand, I’ll also get to hang out with my good friends of the Atlanta Modern Woodworkers Association (some of which have been kind enough to put me up for the weekend).There are only 25 spots available for the class, and I’m not sure how many are left or how long they’ll last, but if you’re anything like me, this class will scratch many woodworking itches and should provide a wonderful weekend with a knowledgeable instructor and good friends. I can’t think of a better choice to enjoy my first formal woodworking class.Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.
Heres a first movie! As an actor I am a beginner but I hope to improve quickly! As subject I chose just the tool I was working today: the plough plane.
Wood Talk did the Modern Woodworkers Association a big favor by helping to promote the MWA teams for the Fine Woodworking Live Build Off.
Yep, these guys want the online community to rock.
I trust that if youre following the +Modern Woodworkers Association you already know who the Wood Talk guys are. If not, be sure to check them out. Youll be glad you did.
In their most recent episode, #141 - Quality Control Is Boring!, Marc mentioned our build off.
Like us, they want to demonstrate how thriving the online woodworking community is. Were looking to show everyone by assembling a number of four (4) person teams for the Fine Woodworking Live Build Off. Our goal is to not only have online woodworkers win, but to have them play a major role in the build off so that everyone in attendance at Fine Woodworking Live learns of the community and the fun we have.
If youll be at Fine Woodworking Live on Friday Night, August 9th, please joing us for the build off. You can sign up below. Youll make some furniture, meet some friends and have some fun.
The slitting blade I was using was hss 75mm o.d. x 0.5mm thickness. The o.d. gave me an effective cut of 45mm outside the top flange of the slitting blade holder. The 0.5mm was slightly under gauge to the 0.020 inches saw plate I normally use for my backsaws. As it ended up this was ideal as I was able to slide the saw plate within the kerfed cut without having to open it up any further. I chose to use an old discarded backsaw handle for the trial and cut 2 slots well achoice from the original slot that was cut in the handle, flipping the handle over as I went. Heres the end results. 
On each side of the handle I completed 3 passes to achieve an optimum outside penetration of the area I wanted slotted. It felt quite safe to run the handle through the slitting blade while guided the handle by hand. But I would not recommend likewise to others unless you have a high quality mounting for the router, a failsafe depth adjustment lock, and a means of slowing down the operating speed of the router. Continuing on: 
The 2nd pass in the correct feed direction. 
The 3rd and final pass in an opposing feed direction. I could not feel any obvious signs of heat build up on the slitting blade after completing all 3 passes.
The final step was to insure the slot was cut to the full and proper depth to allow the saw plate correct seating within the handle. This was done by hand using a dedicated high tpi backsaw thats had the set removed. As mentioned the results were excellent with the handle slots spot on to the horizontal plane of each of the handle faces. 
You need this book. Its fantastic.
