Before getting to the OSB, I fastened the XPS panels to prevent them from shifting. I secured each of the 2 x 8 XPS panels with two (2) Tapcons into the underlying concrete floor. Thats not enough for permanent attachment, but since Id be attaching the OSB through the XPS, it only needed to be attached enough to hold still while I installed it. I started every other row of XPS with a half sheet so that though there were many joints where three (3) panels met, there were no four (4) panel joints.

The corded PC impact driver burnt out after
driving about 2 dozen Tapcons.

After the XPS, I installed the 3/4" tongue and groove OSB. I used a half sheet of OSB on every other row also to achieve the same 3 panel joints. Each sheet of OSB was fastened through the XPS into the concrete with 18 tapcons in a 4-3-4-3-4 patten, installed along the factory markings which are painted on the OSB to help identify where the framing is for typical installations. This left me with a floor fastened every 1.7’ on center. It shouldn’t be going anywhere.

Its beginning to look like a floor.

With the XPS installed to 7-1/2” from the garage door and the OSB installed to 12” from the edge of the XPS I called it a day on installing the floor. I has hoped to also make the threshold which will fit in the 7-1/2” space, but I realized too late that my planer was stuck in my living room, surrounded by the other workshop paraphernalia.

The next morning, after I picked up my new jointer, I began the long task of loading all of the tools into the shop by myself. By the time my wife got home in the early afternoon, the only thing left in the living room was my work bench.

Reloaded with the contents of my shop.

Though I still need to build the threshold and tie it into the OSB I’ve spent the few weeks since the floor was installed coloring the walls and setting the shop back up. In that time, I’ve already come to appreciate how nice working on the new floor is. When I step from the concrete at the door to the OSB I can immediately feel how firm and soft the new floor is.

Though I’m far from finished, it’s absolutely delightful to be able to reach a

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My Cozy Shop Floor Part I The Cozy Part

My new shop floor is soft and cozy warm.

Where We Started On Friday Night.

There are many components to a great shop. One that I dont think gets quite enough credit - and one that Ive ignored until now - is the floor. Like many woodworkers with a garage shop, for years Ive simply used the original concrete as my floor. It was there and machines on wheels were able to roll on it - it worked.

As Ive finished up the odyssey that was my shop walls over the last few months Ive thought about the floor. After the work of the walls, the floor would be quick and simple - provided I could get all my crap off of it. When I realized that my kids would be achoice with my Dad and my Wife achoice with her sister on the same weekend I knew I had a chance to install the floor that I had to take advantage of.

On Friday of the big weekend, once everyone was on their choice I began by moving all of the living room furniture into the dining room. Then I laid out drop cloths and began moving my shop into the living room. I brought my Cousin over and together we emptied everything out of the shop except the table saw, band saw and jointer. Then I paid him with dinner.

I dragged myself up on Saturday and got to work. Unlike many published designs for installing shop floors over masonry floors, I built mine without sleepers. To get achoice without the support sleepers provide, I used 60 psi extruded polystyrene (XPS) rather than the standard 20 psi. Between the high psi XPS and the diffusion the 3/4" OSB would provide to point loading of weight, I decided no sleepers would be needed. I didnt do any structural calculations, but so far the lack of sleepers hasnt been a problem.

The gap between the wall and the XPS is filled with Great Stuff

After vacuuming the floor, the first step was to lay down the XPS. I measured a relatively straight line about 1/2" off the curb at bottom of the exterior wall of my shop. I used that line to set the XPS. I filled the gap between the curb and the XPS with Great Stuff. I used Window & Door great stuff with my Pro-Gun, as I have for the entire shop renovation. The gun gives application control unachievable with the standard can and straw. The Window and Door Great Stuff is better than standard Great Stuff because it stays softer and expands less than standard Great Stuff, making installation easier.

Air sealing as I go.

The XPS I used has a rabbit around the edge. I installed it upside down so that when the sheets were laid against each other, the rabbits created a channel which I filled with M-1 caulking. This allowed me to air seal between the boards of insulation.

With the XPS down, it was time for OSB.

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A Rack For Her Glue Gun Part I

This project began many months ago when my wife, a crafter, pinned this glue gun rack to one of her Pinterest boards. When I saw it I figured it would be easy to make and improve upon, so I re-pinned it to my Neat Things Carolyn Would Like Me To Build board.

The pin that started it the odyssey.

Fast forward a few weeks from my initially seeing it and after a particularly rough day at work I declared that I would need some time alone to unwind and headed to the shop. That’s when I set to building my version of the glue gun rack.

I decided that the the glue gun rack I built would be an experiment in sculpted design. Specifically, I wanted to juxtapose a rigid, rectilinear design on two (2) edges, while  creating a flowing, sculpted surface on the other two (2).

Starting on the rack.

I made the glue gun rack from some scraps of Walnut and Ebony I had on hand. As with any process, it began by milling the lumber flat and square. Then I did my basic layout.

Figuring out where things will go.

First, I glued the Ebony to a piece of Walnut to make a large billet. Then I used my Domino to make the mortises in all the pieces.

Dominos anyone?

With the joinery done, I marked out the basic shapes on each piece, and rough cut them on my band saw.

Rough shaping prior to assembly.

The final step before glue up was to recesses out for the glass tile the tip of the glue gun rests on. To do this, I used my small DeWalt trim router with an 1/8” spiral upcut bit and the plunge base. I routed freehand to within about 1/8” of the line and then cleaned up the edge with my chisels.Next time, well glue up and begin shaping.Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

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Damn You Jointer Damn You To Hell

So I bought a new jointer a few weeks ago. Its a mid-1950s 8" Delta with giant 1 HP General Electric motor residing in the cast iron bases pot belly. It is a penultimate jointer, in that it has dovetailed choices and a straight cutter head. My ultimate jointer will have parallelogram beds and a helix cutter head. Still, considering what I paid, this big old Delta it was a bargain and a big improvement over my old 6”.

Here is the beast, in all her fantastic, frustrating glory.

When I first setup the jointer I used my winding sticks and made a quick assessment that the infeed and outfeed tables were not coplanar. At the time I simply made sure the outfeed table was set properly to the blades (it was), adjust the fence to the outfeed table and milled achoice. I was surfacing thick lumber. As long as I didn’t make too many passes the faces were flat before the board became a wedge.

As I’m starting work on a non-paying commission from my wife for her friend which will require jointing some thin and expensive boards I wanted to first tune up the jointer.

I began that process by watching Marc Spagnuolo’s Jointer Setup Video. It’s a very informative video, but as Marc has a parallelogram jointer, I found that though the theory is the same there were more differences than similarities in the technique he showed versus the one I had to use. The biggest difference I found was that Marc shows making all adjustments to the infeed table. While this works on a parallelogram jointer where cam wheels make permanent adjustments which are held as the bed is raised and lowered, it doesn’t work so well on jointer with dovetailed choices such as I have.

By reading Roland Johnshon’s excellent Tune Up Any Jointer article from the Tools & Shops 2013 issue of Fine Woodworking I learned that with when tuning up a jointer with dovetailed choices such as mine, you want to shim & adjust the outfeed table. The reason for this is that in use, the infeed table is the one you move and adjust up and down. The outfeed table is only moved during tune up and alignment. If you were to shim the infeed table, the shims would be prone to shifting and moving as the bed is adjusted up and down. Less movement means the shims will stay in place longer. Rolands article is behind their pay wall, but its certainly worth checking out if youre a member.

Before I could shim, I had to figure out how close to coplanar my beds were. I did this with a large Veritas straight edge from Lee Valley. It’s probably the one I would have used anychoice, but it was reassuring to see both Marc and Roland recommend the same straight edge.

Begin by loosening and re-tightening the gib screws.

First I loosened the set screws which hold the gib and provide tension against the dovetail choice as Roland suggests. As this relieves tension in the beds, I did this for the infeed and outfeed beds. Unfortunately after resetting them, I still found that my beds were not coplanar.

Next, I adjusted my beds so that the infeed table was just barely higher than the outfeed and both were above the cutter head. With the straight edge clamped to the infeed table, I measured between the outfeed table and the straight edge at the four corners of the outfeed table (this requires moving and re-clamping the straight edge).

Lots of light under the straight edge.

From here, it was a slow, tedious process of measuring, adding shims, re-measuring, adding more shims, re-measuring, etc. For shims, I bought two (2) extra feel gauges. I took them apart and used the blades for shims.

More shims. She needs more shims!

I started this process on Friday night. I did it for about 4 hours on Sunday. As I write this on Monday night, theres more shimming to be done. Hopefully Ill have coplanar beds by my Saturday post.Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

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