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Right after the Tilt Top Table, Marc is back into a new Guild Build. This time well be making a Greene & Greene style Blanket Chest.
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The SketchUp of the Greene & Greene Chest build. |
I have a checkered history of Guild Builds, have participated in the Shaker End Table and the Hanging Wall Cabinet builds (sort of). Alas, sometimes live does get in the choice.
But dont let my busy schedule keep you achoice. The Guild Builds are a great choice to learn and build along with your friends. This will be a fun and practical project. Beautiful too. Build along.
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Well, Ive been under the weather for the last few days and havent done much with the cooler box build. I got all the pieces cut to length and then ripped to width last Friday. While I was ripping them I noticed that they were still very wet so I clamped them together and left them on my workbench to dry. I tried to go out once a day and rotate the middle boards to the outside. 2 days ago I went ahead and took them all out of the clamps and spread them across the bench to finish drying. I went out last night and glued up the legs so that I could start sanding all the pieces today. While I was laying out all the pieces for the legs I noticed that they were really rocking up and down on the bench but they didnt seem that warped. I took a closer look and discovered that the hardboard top of my bench seemed to have sucked up a bunch of that extra moisture and warped between all the screws holding it down! This was totally unexpected! I live in Southern California so Im hoping that it will dry out in the next few days on its own. If not then I will just go down and buy another $5 piece of hardboard and replace it.
You can also watch my VLOGS about the project here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StK3Y8h38Kk&list=PLZxRiOuIAKbu6ZNDU0TkYm5WXTd4b3XdU
Here are all the pieces cut down to size but still very very wet
We sawdust went everywhere
I clamped them all together to try and avoid some of the warping and twisting
I unclamped them to let them finish drying out
The hardboard top on my workbench found some of that moisture!
Its hard to see in this pictures but it is pretty much warped between all the screws.
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For the first time in over a year my clamps are off the floor, out of buckets and hanging on the wall where they belong.
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This was a less than useful home for my parallel clamps. |
This past week I was able to spend some time in the shop. With the walls and floor finished, I focused on getting tools out of their piles on the floor and into their permanent homes. This is a slow process, as I usually have to design and build their permanent home first.
I knew that the design for the clamp racks had to be efficient. I used to use Woodpecker Clamp Racks. Though they were strong, easy to use and cost effective, they only stored clamps one (1) clamp deep. Given my abundance of clamps and shortage of wall space, this mean they had to go. Six (6) months ago, they moved to my Dads shop and theyve been happy there since.
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My old Woodpeckers clamp racks now house my Dads Parallels. |
For the new racks in my shop, I spent a few days savings rack designs to a Pinterest board. The I took the materials I had at hand and got to work.
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5/4 Pine, 3/4" OSB & 1/2 Baltic Birch served as great materials for the clamp racks. |
I ended up with three (3) simple racks. They total 10 slots for clamps. Each slot is 12" long and holds between six (6) and eight (8) clamps, depending on the size of the clamp head.
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In use, the 3 racks work wonderfully. |
I also made a simple rack for my quick clamps. Its just two (2) pipes (the original guide rails from my band saws factory fence) set into a wood block. I took the idea from the pipe clamps which my quick clamps used to hang from.
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Simple and effective quick clamp storage. |
Finally I made a quick rack for my Systainers. This rack is just a temporary measure, but Im looking to consolidate all my storage and get everything off the floor. In those terms, it works well.
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A quick and dirty systainer rack. |
Hopefully Ill get further on it this week, though I have to start working on the next quilt rack as it is due at the by the end of September.
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There are not many positive reviews on this little rabbet plane, even anything! Today I decided to examine it more closely and verify its performances. Although a simple structure, it has an adjusting mouth. The bullnose structure, with the front part of the sole very narrow, allows the plane for using it in special situations, such as finishing a blind rabbet or working close to the intersection of stiles and rails.
The body plane consists of two sliding parts; a screw allows to lock the parts into position and set the opening mouth to the desired width. Unfortunately, every time you perform this operation, you have to reset the blade (troublesome without a blade adjusting wheel), for which can be certainly convenient to adjust the mouth in an intermediate position and avoid too many changes. Another weak point is the lever cap; it holds the blade in its position by a thumb screw. It has little contact surface with the blade and it is quite thin and induces apprehension when the screw is tightly closed. The iron sits at 45°, bevel down, what that preferably addresses this plane for using it with the grain.

The sides were square with the sole. 
I run a plane tune up. With the blade in working position, but retracted so that it cannot cut, I lapped the sole using glass plate attached sandpaper. The blade was sharpened with a 30° bevel. For this iron type I used the Stanley sharpening guide. In these blades its very important to obtain the cutting edge perfectly square with the sides. The lever cap was in contact with iron only to one side, making the plane practically unusable. I accurately smoothed this zone and in order to ensure a good contact I had to make a slight correction (I used a file) to the protrusions that form the lever fulcrum. The iron bedded satisfactorily. The final result is quite good and the plane proved to be accurate in finishing rabbets. More than one doubt remains, particularly regarding a good blade grip.
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There are two important benefits to accommodate a good number of tools in the carpenters bench: they are alchoices on hand and, adding a consistent weight to the entire structure, greatly enhance stability. On my bench I obtained the most space possible: in addition to the classic dresser, I used the open compartment under the top to accommodate the wooden planes I use more frequently. In the shorter side where the vice is not present there is another space, built in the thickness of the legs and when I fixed some instruments for measuring and tracking.
Of course, the planes are king, occupying most of the available space. The two large drawers on the left side are occupied by combination planes. One of the drawers on the right side is devoted to tools for drilling, brace, hand drill, gimlet, tips etc..
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The Joinery section starts on Page 63.
Enjoy...
FREE Download from Google Books.
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Ok ... I said the Small Pine Chest was done ... Impatience!!!
In between working on a new project, I have gone back and fitted the hinges, improved the finish and made an addition to it, hopefully making it more of a finished piece and a lot more useful.
As this project was my warm up to dovetails and making my own tool chest, I decided to add a drawer or till to it. Nothing fancy just a simple butt jointed box that sits on two Oak side rails. As it stands this would make a nice little travelling tool chest. My no#6 plane fits in the bottom like a hand in a glove! In fact its probably a good thing that my large tennon saw doesnt fit as I have now out grown my small toolbox I made (what seems like) ages ago.
Instead its going to make someone a lovely Christmas present...
Anychoice, a few pics to really wrap this project up!
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I finished up the cooler box! It still needs some staining but I finished it enough for the video. Im almost done with the video as well. It just needs the voice overs recorded and then it will be ready to post!
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This posting was started on the 10th November and has been written as the project progressed... Instead of getting stuck into the project until completion, I had a week where I was busy with other things.
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A few days ago I finally decided I need to pluck up some courage and have a go at Dovetails...
I also need to make a tool chest at some point, therefore, the decision was made to build a smaller practise chest first.
I had a few lengths of budget B-grade Pine 18mm thick and 144mm wide which is really knotty but will (hopefully) do the job. Being my first attempt at dovetails, there is a good chance Im gonna screw up, so no point in wasting good wood - right?
I also have the remains of what looks like a Mahogany desk top with which to make a lid - if I even get that far!
First job was to roughly cut the pine boards to length and glue them together to make wider boards. After glueing I cut them to exact length and made sure they were all square with my shooting board and no#6 plane.

2 sides, a front and back and a bottom piece that hasnt been cut to any specific size yet.
Before laying out the joinery, I thought it best to practice laying out dovetails on a scrap piece of wood using instructions from a book. I wanted to layout the pin & tail spacings using dividers but each time i ended up with incorrect spacings. I even got my girlfriend involved to check my sanity following the instructions line by line and still the method didnt work. Finally I resorted to looking up Dovetail layout on good ol Google.
Ah ha!!!!... The book instructions were wrong! Printing or proof reading error perhaps - who knows, at least I was back on track and could now confidently layout dovetails on the chest. I could have just used common sense but wanted to learn properly - by the book so to speak.
Marking out my tail boards first, both boards together to save some time.
I set my bevel gauge to a 1:6 as recommended for softwoods. I think they look nicer than 1:8 dovetails as well so this will probably be my default setting if I decide to make a dovetail jig.
Front & Back boards tails all marked out and ready for cutting - X marks the waste.
Tails cut. Chopping out the waste from the tails boards was nice and easy and pretty straight forward, taking care to preserve the baseline. I took a lot of time ensuring my cutting was accurate but realised afterwards its the accuracy of the pins that makes a tight joint as these come from the tails.
My bench isnt the most solid thing in the world so I used a huge butchers block on my saw bench so I could sit astride it and chop out the pins. These took a lot longer as my tails were pretty big and I was using a much bigger chisel.
There we go... My first ever Dovetails!!! One corner done another three to go...
Its starting to look like a box ...
After a lot of chopping, a big pile of wood chips and worrying about the neighbours complaining about the banging...
I have a dovetailed box carcass. While the joints certainly are not perfect by any means they look OK and will be even better with some glue. They do look real purdy...I think so anychoice.
A close up of the Dovetails after gluing. The expanding glue makes them positively tight and decent looking. I wish I had used better quality wood now as this was supposed to be a practice project. They will look even better when I do a final finish.
Time to make a bottom for it...
I planed the bottom board for a nice snug fit. I do not own a plough plane yet and decided to simply glue this bottom panel inside the carcass. In modern glue we trust!. I may also add some screw or nails.
Before gluing in the bottom panel, I rubbed glue in to the end grain to seal it and better protect against a dry joint.
The Titebond Polyurethane glue is strong stuff and fills out any joinery imperfections nicely, but its messy and sticky stuff to use. Its also hard to clean up the squeeze out once dry. The nail varnish remover makes cleaning and unsticking hands a lot easier.
Good squeeze out all around the bottom panel.
At this stage aside from cleaning up and finishing, the carcass is almost complete.
Time to focus on the lid...
The lid is made from a piece mahogany which was given to me by a friend. I believe it was part of an old school desk or side bench. As you can see its covered in glue and paint and God Knows What! . Also shown is the small lip on one side which is about 3/4" wide by 1/4" high, which I have decided to keep and use in the final design - Im making this up as I go!
Its such a nice feeling making accurate cuts using sharp panel saws on a proper saw bench. The saw shown is my favourite 26" monster at 5ppi rip.
Ok ... we have a (very) basic square(ish) lid, it needs a lot more refining...
Removing the saw marks and squaring the lid - End grain first.
Removing the old finish, paint and grime... I then chamfered all the top edges to make what I believe is called a raised panel. The Mahogany handles so much nicer than Pine, I wish I had more of this stuff!
Lots of shavings later.... Nice red stuff instead of the usual white.
Unfinished Pine is so anaemic...

We have an almost completed chest. I have had a nightmare with tearout while trying to finish the pine carcass. Using sandpaper helps but seems a cop out. I think I am going to buy a cabinet scraper which should be able to better handle difficult wood such as this knotty Pine. I also need to buy a hinge for the lid.
Impatience! I couldnt wait and wanted to see the final finish of the lid. Here it is with a single coat of boiled Linseed oil. I will add more once the carcass is finished properly.
Ok... Final sanding done and a couple of coats of Linseed oil applied... Aside from fitting a hinge for the lid - Im gonna call it ... Done!
I have to say for a first attempt at dovetail joinery I am very happy with the result. I only really messed up one half pin on the back side at the bottom where I undercut the baseline slightly - it wont really show. The rest of the joints are quite tight. I really wish I had started with clearer, less knotty wood - oh well, I guess they add character.
Due to other commitments, my week achoice from the project meant I mentally turned off and lost interest and motivation.. Once again I found myself racing to finish it due to impatience and my weak point is finishing. If I continue to use Pine then I think a cabinet scraper (already ordered) will be the choice forward, especially as I hate sanding and the dust it creates in the house. I resharpened the plane blade, made the mouth smaller, played with the chip breaker, skewed the blade and still got lots of tear out. Practice practice practice....
I make sure that when I butt joint the two boards together, the cup of the grain runs in opposite directions to minimise wood movement. So ... what is the best choice to plane jointed boards when the grain of the two boards runs in opposite directions?
All in all another great learning exercise and a good confidence builder, and ... I can add another joint to my repertoire!
Im really keen to have a go at a full size tool chest soon.
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