Ive just about posted all of the content I created and recorded at Woodworking in America 2013. Luckily, my good friends +Tom Iovino, +Sean Wisniewski, +Neal Becker gave me some photos to share. I hope you enjoy. By the choice, if you want to see really good photos of WIA13, check out +David Picciutos blog, Drunken Woodworker.

The Online Woodworking Discussion Panel.

Somehow, the let the Modern Woodworkers Association in.

The Wood Talk and Giant Cypress guys were let in too,
to provide actual information.

Yes, Tom talks just as much in person.

Neil Zenuk (@twowheelneil) chops some sweet dovetails.

Tom likes me!

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

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A Sight 4 Saw Eyes

Its a happy day! After waiting for over 3 weeks, I finally have my saws back from being sharpened.

As mentioned previously I have been given some saws (1,3 and 4) which I promptly de-rusted, cleaned and oiled and sent off for sharpening as follows:

1. Warranted Superior 26" - 5ppi RIP

2. Sandvik 22" - 10ppi RIP

3. NoName 21.5" - 8ppi Crosscut

4. Warranted Superior 20" - 10ppi Crosscut

All saws have been jointed flat and resharpened and set, each costing £10.50. I will get myself some files and a saw  set to learn to do it myself eventually but for now, for just over £40 I should be able to cover most of my larger sawing requirements - bargain! 

Unfortunately, the guy who normally does the sharpening has been on holiday, hence the delay, the service normally only takes a week. If anyone in the Surrey area is interested, the company who carried out the sharpening is Winsor Saw Ltd of Windsor 01753 862029, but you can also drop off and collect saws from  Village Mowers in Hersham, Surrey 01932 248538.

Aside from my Lie Nielson backsaws (a crosscut carcass saw and a dovetail saw), which I use all the time. I still need (would like) a larger tenon saw. Common sense suggests something like a 400mm 10ppi rip saw as the largest cuts are with the grain when cutting a tenon, but would it still be suitable for making precision crosscuts when my carcass saw is a bit small ... or should I just try and do precision cuts with the panel saws above ... decisions decisions.

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At Last!!!

Well after waiting for what seems like months, sending several emails regarding UK availability and keeping a close eye on the Lost Art Press website & blog and finally monitoring stock levels of it on Axminster Tools, its finally mine - At Last!!!

The Anarchist Toolchest by Chris Schwarz - The Modern Day Godfather of hand tool woodworking.

I cant wait to get stuck into this book and I will do my best NOT to review it, as it seems the whole woodworking world and his wife has already done so...

So what else have I been spending money on ...

Just a few stocking fillers from Axminster Tools - not that I wear stockings...

• 2x Large Old fashioned Carpenters Hand Screws
• Veritas Card Scraper set of 4
• Veritas Gimlet set of 7
• Kirschen Burnisher to sharpen the Cabinet Scrapers
• Crown Adjustable Square
• 12" Center Finding Rule

I also purchased a set of 6" and 4" dividers on Ebay. These dividers have a more reliable screw adjustment. I was given my current pair which are from an old trigonometry set that move while in use, unless you are extremely careful with them.

 

Aside from a few luxury items, I should be able to control my hand tool fetish for a while - at least until I have read about the 50 essential tools in the Anarchist Toolchest...

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Jumat, 12 Februari 2016

Stephens Step Stool Part III

When I removed the sides from their glue up, I found that the left side had cupped slightly.

I took all of the unassembled pieces, both cupped and flat, and sanded them to 220. This may have been overkill as I still hand plenty of post assembly sanding to go, but I wanted to make sure that I didnt have to do any initial smoothing after the stool was assembled.

I pre-routed the edges I wouldnt be able to reach after assembly.

When the pieces were sanded, I marked out the edges I wouldnt be able to reach with a router after assembly and rounded them over with a ¼” radius round over bit. I was careful to keep well achoice from the joinery. This meant that there would still be rounding and smoothing to do by hand after assembly. That’s the price of ensuring that the joinery wasnt damaged and that rounded edges on the assembled pieces flowed together properly.

Unfortunately I only had time for sanding and I wasnt able to assemble the stool. The pieces spent one more night stickered.

By the time I was ready for assembly, this side had cupped severely.

The following day, when I finally did get to assembly, I found a wicked cup in the left side. After thinking about it for a few minutes I dug out my Woodpecker Aluminum Camping Cauls and used two (2) to force the left side close to flat.

The cauls forced it into almost flat.

Close to flat wasnt exactly flat and the boards hadnt been exactly flat when I dovetailed them either. This resulted in the assembly of the dovetails requiring a little quick paring and some additional persuading with a large rubber mallet. I used Tightbond III in the dovetails for its open time and clamped them up overnight.

All glued up.

In the morning, the tear out from the last minute tail adjustment was obvious.Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

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