Woodworking Projects and Plans: cutting

The plans called for making the benchtop out of 3/4" plywood. Ive had this sheet of 1/2" plywood in my garage forever. I planned out all my cuts and I was able to make the bench top and bottom shelf with 2 layers of the 1/2" plywood. I made the tray bottom out of 1 piece.

I set up the 4x8 sheet on my 2 sawhorses with 2x4s running the length for support. I also set up a straight edge to run my cordless saw along. This end will be cut off here and then cut into two matching pieces to make the bottom shelf.

I also set up two scrap pieces of 2x4 to support the wood when I cross cut it.

I checked the far corner and it is pretty square so I clamped a 1x3 down to use to cut the piece for the tray bottom. I gave it a couple of extra inches and will cut it down to size on the table saw. This will make sure that the side cut with the 1x3 ends up being square.

My table saw came with a 28 tooth blade. I bought a 40 tooth blade a couple of weeks back and I am finally getting a chance to try it out.

Here is the tray bottom and shelf top cut to size.

The 2 pieces for the benchtop have been cut to size.

I cut the hardboard to width using the same settings that I used on the plywood.

I didnt want to have to deal with the leftovers of a full sheet of hardboard so I bought 2 smaller pieces that fit in my car. I bought 2 because they were not long enough to cover the length of the benchtop.

All cut to size.

I cut the hardboard so that the seem would be located where I need to cut the top out for the moving dog block.

Heres the first dry fit.

Senin, 28 Maret 2016

New Yankee Workshop Workbench update cutting the inserts out of the top

I cut the slot out of the benchtop for the dogs and tailstock. What a giant pain in the rear? Norm does it in the video in like 30 seconds and it took me nearly an hour.

I attached the 2 pieces of plywood together with 1" drywall screws and some of them ended up poking through so I had to cut off all the tips with my dremel before running the piece through the tablesaw.

I marked the two ends of the slot and then cut them on the tablesaw.

I got them close and then finished them with a jigsaw.

I also used the jigsaw to cut the ends.

All cut and ready for the next step.

I marked the corners and then clamped a framing square down to use as a cut guide for my small cordless saw.

I cut it close and then used the jigsaw to finish it.

I made sure that all my cuts were square to the material.

Here it is all cut out.

Minggu, 21 Februari 2016

Cutting Board

The cutting board is as simple as useful auxiliary device in any woodworking shop. Its construction is very simple and does not require special materials (scrap wood will be fine)

The main piece consists of a 1 inch thick board, 10" wide and 1 foot long. At both ends, on opposite sides, two square holders (1 1/4" x 1 1/4" section) are screwed and /or glued (of course these sizes can be customized as needed). While one is located on the backside and firmly holds the tool against the workbench edge, the other is on the top face and holds the workpiece in place during cutting.

This holder is shorter than a couple of inches in respect to the tablet width, in order to provide room to the saw action (typically we will use a backsaw).

The cutting free hand (in my case the right one, more often the left one) will hold the workpiece firmly pressed against the support. At the same time this force will push the tool against the bench, blocking everything very efficiently.

Using a free-hand cut, the cutting board, usually, is delegated in the preliminary stages of cutting job, remanding later the fine squaring process, but ......... surfing the net, I saw a Roy Underhill and Chris Schwarz video and..... I discovered a truly amazing trick which helps you to get a much better result. This method exploits the ability of the saw blade to reflect items, including the workpiece. If you look carefully, you will see how the blade may cause image distortion when it is out of square and how easy is, however, to place the saw in the right choice just following the optical effect of mirror surface. Well ...... I tried it and really works!

Here are pictures of the first piece I just cut in this choice without marking it. Only one cut dimension (first pic) is slightly out of square.

Really promising!

Kamis, 18 Februari 2016

Stopped Rabbets

Sometimes we have to make rabbets which do not run throughout the piece: they stop more or less close to one of its ends.

The Stanley 78 is a metal rabbet plane with adjustable side fence; it is able to mount the blade in a further position as well as in the standard choice. This setting (bullnose) allows you to work close to obstacles, for example near stiles and rails intersection or in the case of a blind rabbet. However, even though the plane works in bullnose configuration, the short sole needs a void space for a correct job.

For this purpose a mortice can be cut at blind rabbet extremity by using a saw and a mortice chisel.

A scrap piece can be clamped for adsorbing the plane shots and avoiding the damage of the blind edge.

Kamis, 04 Februari 2016

Cutting dimensions for the full size ice chest cooler box

Ive been practicing more in Sketchup and have learned how to add dimensions to all the parts. I made up a .PDF with some cutting dimensions and added it under the cooler box picture in the downloads page. Check them out and let me know what you think!
p/downloads.html
I want to try and figure out how to make a cut list showing the boards with the pieces cut out of them but that is going to be my next big learning project.

Woodworking Projects and Plans

Selasa, 29 Maret 2016

New Yankee Workshop Workbench update cutting the plywood benchtop

Senin, 28 Maret 2016

New Yankee Workshop Workbench update cutting the inserts out of the top

Minggu, 21 Februari 2016

Cutting Board

Kamis, 18 Februari 2016

Stopped Rabbets

Kamis, 04 Februari 2016

Cutting dimensions for the full size ice chest cooler box

Archive