Is ......
likely that the thin chip is stopped between the two irons with
resulting plane mouth clogging. It is therefore necessary to carefully flatten the surface portion of the chipbreaker that
adheres to the blade and ensure a perfect fit between the parties. The problem is that sometimes (if not frequently) the chipbreaker is not regular and after the iron screw has been tight the
blade may show non contact areas, despite having flattened with
care. Being soft iron, we can try to straighten the chipbreaker in the vice but this is a little difficult job.
Another method is to create a burr on the chipbreaker edge, by which we can close any (small) residual gap. The procedure
plans to keep the chipbreaker with an angle respect to a flat surface on which we attack a sheet of 150 grit abrasive paper. Move repeatedly backwards until the metal burr forms. So
use a small screwdriver (electrician models have
the right thin measure) and pass it along the contact line between the two iron until they adhere perfectly.
The process takes few minutes!
likely that the thin chip is stopped between the two irons with
resulting plane mouth clogging. It is therefore necessary to carefully flatten the surface portion of the chipbreaker that
adheres to the blade and ensure a perfect fit between the parties. The problem is that sometimes (if not frequently) the chipbreaker is not regular and after the iron screw has been tight the
blade may show non contact areas, despite having flattened with
care. Being soft iron, we can try to straighten the chipbreaker in the vice but this is a little difficult job.
Another method is to create a burr on the chipbreaker edge, by which we can close any (small) residual gap. The procedure plans to keep the chipbreaker with an angle respect to a flat surface on which we attack a sheet of 150 grit abrasive paper. Move repeatedly backwards until the metal burr forms. So
use a small screwdriver (electrician models have
the right thin measure) and pass it along the contact line between the two iron until they adhere perfectly.
The process takes few minutes!
Of course best modern plane makers offer similar solutions. I recently found myself having to do the squaring job on long fir boards, using the new Stanley 62, a low angle plane with the length of a jack which reproduces the historical N° 62. It is not a jointer but the low-angle configuration offers advantages in softwood planing. The sides are very low, not allowing the anchoring of traditional guides. That required a self-built solution. So I made a simple guide with a beech board (composed of several pieces assembled for greater stability), reproducing in the upper portion the shape of the plane and leaving a protrusion from the bottom of the plane of about 7 cm. 
