When you have to work small in section pieces with molding, plow and rebate planes, may be convenient to use a proper board which helps to keep them steady during planing. It simply consists of a leveled board , at least 150 cm long and with section of about 10 x2, 5 cm. On its surface can be glued a stright rail (section 4x2, 5 cm).
It is important that the side of the rail is square with the backing surface of the piece. I used some screws inserted at the end of the board; they have the task of stopping the piece during processing. They can be tightened and loosened to allow to avoid the piece escapes from board. If the piece is square it will be sufficient. However, it is convenient to work pieces longer than the final measure to use the edges or parts that will be discarded (cheek of a tenon in the pic), to ensure all through thin nails. The table is stopped by dogs and lateral vice.
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Ive alchoices been of the mind that having a separate jointer and planer was a better use of space in a narrow shop where having the room to lift up the jointer bed of a combo machine could be an issue. Frustrations with aligning the beds of my mid-50s jointer and not knowing where to put my planer have me re-thinking that
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| The current jointer I love and hate. |
Im currently thinking that I may be better off with a 12" combo machine instead. I would have to put it on a mobile base, but it could be more efficient with space than the two machines and would certainly increase my jointing capacity.
I want this to be my last jointer/planer purchase for a decade or two and I want it to have a helical cutter head. Im currently considering (and saving for) the Jet or Grizzly.
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| Woodcraft had a 15% off sale this past weekend on the Jet, which got me thinking. |
I also noticed in the new Rikon in an email from Highland Woodworking today.
I was wondering if any of you have these (or other) combo machines? Are they worth it? Is setup an issue? Most importantly, how close to a wall can you place the machine?
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