Abrasive paper and double side tape together for flattening

The abrasive paper attached to a plan surface is a good choice to flatten soles of metal planes for significantly improving their performances. Usually I use spray glue that allows a valid bur reversible bonding so you can easily replace the abrasive when it is exhausted. The only drawback is the glue residue left on the glass plate that has to be cleaned with alcohol every time . An alternative choice is to use double-sided adhesive tape which provides excellent grip and when removed leaves no residue on glass and results in faster replacement operations .

If you cant find a full sheet of sandpaper wide enough then you could join two narrow strips togheter.

. The tape thickness is minimal and does not affect the flatness degree useful to obtain a good levelled surface.

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When we use a block plane with one hand for planing a piece held in the grip, there is the risk of tripping on the edge and see the plane flying to the floor, almost alchoices with tragic consequences for our tool.Of course precautions are taken only after having experienced the event and so my vintage #9 1 / 2  has experienced how hard the lab floor is! Fortunately, the body plane was not damaged: the only consequence was the cap lever breaking.I had the idea for the problem solution from Nintendo Wii remote to wich I removed the safety loop and secured it in the slot created by the mouth regulating lever. In other block plane models it can also be secured directly around the front knobIt does not interfere with the planing action  and avoid any danger of falling.

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Tonguing and Grooving Double Job One Plane

The Tonguing and Grooving was a common choice of joining boards; in fact we can find many tools dedicated to this job. Is the case of this "combination" plane coming from UK.

 Its marked "MOORE LIVERPOOL", Planemaker  working between 1824 and 1870. It has the feature of having two blades, one for the tongue and another for cutting the groove, just turning the plane in the opposite direction. The fence is in the middle of plane body; in this choice the cut will be alchoices to the same distance from edge. This plane cuts in the center on 3/4" thick boards, but others were for different thickness. 

The plane needed some care, mainly in the mouth area where I preferred to close a little bit the opening, restoring the correct geometries. Moreover I had to substitute one wedge for which I used a cherry scrap. After the blades have been sharpened, the plane restarted to produce shavings with a good precision, unexpected for a such old tool.

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Rabu, 24 Februari 2016

Together for Ever!

Should have more than a one hundred years these tongue and groove planes. I picked up them from ebay, maybe they come from Austria or Germany. No marks on the plane body, neither on the blades.They cut a 8 mm tongue and groove.

When I had them I noticed they needed a restoring job. The plane body showed numerous worm holes, although the wood was solid enough.

The main problem was that the wooden screws was blocked into the body and for two of them I cannot unscrew. The only solution was sawing the plane body for reach the thread and release the screw. The damage was inevitable and a repair needed!I dislike to have these tools only for collecting them; I love to use them too. So I attempted to a structural and functional recovery, preserving, if possible, their lived-in look with some sign of aging

After washing with soap and treated with an anti-worm product (although the old holes seemed empty), blades and steel skates received a anti-rust treatment.

The pieces were then re-glued and veneers were used for closing the saw grooves. Then I closed the worm holes, leaving some intentionally.

The functional recovery concerned after all in to steady contact points (soles and fences). For this job I used mahogany strips. This wood is also present in the wedges and regulating screws.
The skate bed and sides were rectified by a big file and by sliding the plow on the abrasive paper while keeping it square.

The two half-skates are inserted into a groove of plane body. At heel ant toe, the skates have dovetail shape and are firmly held by a nail driven into the body.

One wooden screw has split while removing it and I had to repair by gluing.

All screws had difficulties to move in their threads, so I used a thin cylindric rasp for easy their action.

Blades are hand forged; the plow plane blade was worn-out, so I had to substitute it.I started from a 32 mm single plane iron, cut by a angle grinder (cooling often) and refinished at bench grinder.

By looking at old blade, it shows a trapezoidal section and slightly tapered sides; this avoids the cutter binds into the groove walls, even if the plane rocks a bit.

Moreover, the original blades show a convex shape for a stronger holding of them by wedge; I imitate this for the new blade and it works. 

Finally, I rectified the contact surfaces (soles and fences) for having the cutting edge square to the fence and parallel to the sole. Of course I tried to cut a joint.

 

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